Best top rope anchor reddit The number of top rope routes will show up in red, this is the best way I've figured out how to find specific types of routes. Full galvanized chain/ snub/ fancy anchor. It shouldn't happen but it certainly can. Two of the bolts were connected to each other with a rope and there was a locking carabiner attached one of the bolts. If one somehow blows a piece in their top rope anchor (again, set good pieces and this should never happen), the extension in the anchor is equivalent to the climber falling the same distance onto the rope. This doesn't apply to a top rope anchor set up, which incorporates the climbing rope as a shock absorber. Assessing and mitigating risk during anchor setup, even if you have a trail to the top, is vital. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. Don't use only 1 biner to clip the rope to the anchor, its not safe. Clearly, this requires you have some traditional climbing protection. So, I checked the carabiner and simply fed my rope through the carabiner. It provides a master point to clip into to clean the anchor which can be nice if you need to rappel. (I used "weight" to simplify the concept) But, IIRC, in real life, because of carabiner friction and pulley effect at the MP, the climber's side is 1x climber's weight, the MP is about 1. This allows access to a tree of any height, not just one with handholds or footholds. See full list on climbtallpeaks. 8mm rope is a must for these anchors to get enough length and get the angle of anchor points smaller. There's always the possibility that the rope will unscrew a screwgate or other (low probability) shenanigans can happen, so a second link is preferred. 30’ well oversized chain, matched nylon three-twist, fancy anchor. 2 quickdraws are fine as a very short term anchor, like if you are rapping a multipitch or flying up an easy sport climb and swapping leads. So basically 30 foot rope and 2 lb works ok. How do you rig this? The only time I consider using 2 screw-gates is when top-roping non-bolted lines, and this is because a) reduces wear on the rope and b) if we are projecting a route (taking lots of falls, jiggling the gear/ anchor around a bit), it introduces redundancy in the highly highly unlikely event that one screwgate becomes unlocked by rubbing against When you rap off the anchors, you're passing the rope through either the bolts, an attached quicklink/mallion or chains. As for a TR anchor, I'd worry with the use of non locking carabiners. The grade is not that important. Anchor there of course. Rope is allso much better to get masterpoint over the ledge. 1. And yes we are scared of falling. 90 is the limit. Around 10 yards off the bank was end of weeds and a drop off. You could attempt a 5. In a top rope set up, the sling transfers the load to the anchor point, while the rope absorbs the shock. vs. I usually build a normal anchor and clip in a figure 8 on a bight to the master point. g. The document has moved here. Moved Permanently. Your second comes up, have them clip into a piece or two. Anchor placed at the top, belayer sitting on top of the cliff and belaying the climber from the top. Less common, but still okay, would be 3 non-locking ovals. The nice thing about ice is that it forms a padded lip that is gentle on your rope. Break down the anchor, your top piece becomes 1st piece of pro. Insurance requirements… I ran across several anchoring (ideas): Full stainless chain/ snubber/ fancy anchor. 90 degrees between "tripod legs" absolute maximum. Then take the second anchor (the outside one), pulling the TR to the center of the route, and anchor it. If necessary keep all pieces of gear in the anchor for the belay. I was thinking about investing in a fall arrest harness and anchoring it to the top of the house. The best way would be with some 10mil static rope. It's a top rope anchor. This is 100% a MYTH. Bottom belay or "bottom rope": Anchor placed at the top, belayer at the bottom. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. 1/2 chain, matched 1/2 nylon 8-ply, fancy anchor. 30m static rope (9-11 mm) 1 or 2 25ft cordolettes 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. Static rope for the climber would greatly increase the force a fall (even factor 0) puts on the anchor. If there was a 20 foot telescopic stick anchor that collapses to 1 foot would be sweet. In this article, we explain how to set up one type of versatile top-rope anchor Nov 11, 2019 · The other type of top-rope anchor involves building a masterpoint by using trees and boulders near the top of the cliff. What I learned today. Fancy anchor prices. (Hint: canyoneers use a double or triple sheet bend but others work, too) There were 4 more friends waiting to climb top rope and none of them were capable of removing the anchor. Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. In order to do so, you'll probably have to untie your figure-8/bowline/whatever tie-in you use. For more common trad anchors or multi-pitch climbing, 20–25 feet of 7mm cordalette is pretty common. Edit: you can also use the route finder on the website to narrow your search down even further. That's fine, but it sucks to untie the F8. com Eventually, though, there comes a time when you want to set up your own top-rope anchor. a top rope anchor ideally shouldn't be made from dynamic rope. Two quickdraws with non-locking biners is a very common anchor set-up for that kind of thing. Don't rep without a prussik, its not safe. A death triangle is a static anchor, this looks like a top-rope. This would give me a lot more comfort being up there. If your anchor is too busy it just makes it more dangerous in the long-run because the person cleaning can get easily flustered by a crowded anchor. All of the gyms where I'm from make you bring your own rope if you want to lead, and the draws aren't used for top-roping, except at one gym where they clip the top-rope through the draws to prevent top-rope climbers taking big swings off overhands. EXAMPLE: You set a sliding -X on a two bolt anchor and one of the bolts is rusty and blows out. Then take the 3rd anchor (the center one), and anchor it. Don't climb with a watch on, its not safe. Don't leave draws attached to rope when cleaning, its not safe. Consider a situation when you want to set up a top rope but the best solid tree (or whatever bomber natural anchor) is like 10 meters from the edge, and you would like your master point to be close to the edge. I don’t think a rope would last a full day lowering. Have you seen the way to rig them up from the bottom, with a zip tie at the top? That way if you get snagged, you can pull hard enough to break the zip tie, and pull the anchor up from the bottom and let the arms fold against the shank. If I'm using bolt anchors is there any benefit using webbing over cordelette? 1. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I’m tired of hand-lining the rope in constantly with each reposition, then dealing with the mess tangled on my deck. it will rub against the rock as it stretches, possibly wearing completely out before the session is over. That honestly that is a pretty huge flaw in the anchor, given that the loop wasn’t doubled. For a more long term anchor you want locking biners and multiple points for tieing people in, hanging gear/rope, and general versatility. 396 votes, 207 comments. Just like rock climbing, it's best to set the anchor below the lip. You're taking big falls on the intermediate draws, and not usually the anchor, even when top roping, so worry at least as much about the rest of your gear, right? Yeah, a single tree anchor is a pretty classic TR ice anchor. I’ve been researching anchor systems for my Crecent CK1. 6 with terrible rope drag where your belayer would have a really hard time taking up slack. Access to the top of routes will vary, as will the available anchor points. The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. Yes, arborists typically throw a rope over a branch, and then climb up the rope. I hear a lot of people use quads for single pitch sport, and I do think it is a bit overkill. 11mm is too thick, IMO. I didn't say I tied the webbing to the cord [EDIT: Guess I did say that] but, honestly, I would have no problem tying 8mm cord to 1" tubular webbing - with the appropriate knot - for a top rope anchor. This is the anchor at the top of one of my last climbs. Don't use cordelette as a bail biner, its not safe. Throw the rope down to the ground. 11 that safe for top rope, not get very far, walk up to the anchor and move the rope to another route. Without static rope, you cant make anchor here. Be very careful close to the edge, and preferably tie in a friction knot like a Prusik to the line to anchor yourself so if you do fall you won't go far. I've only had to do it once but it saved my anchor, and also saved 20 feet of rope pollution. In situations where a connection is remote, and not easily accessible/not consistently monitored (e. I prefer using the static line over webbing personally, as it's easier to work with and more versatile. that study pertains to a load falling on the dyneema sling alone, where the sling needs to act as a shock absorber. Mainly looking for recommendations on a good climbing rope & reliable brands I can trust; petzl, mammut, etc. I took a class last weekend actually, but didn't take note of the rope thickness. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. In that case, use two quick-draws, lockers on the chains and revolving lockers for the rope. You can build an anchor just about anywhere at the lake with a set of hexes and a 25-50 foot piece of static rope. Nov 24, 2020 · This anchor provides the most security. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. 7 face climbing with the top out being (a fucking hike) 30 feet of literal class 3 walking. Don't rep with a backpack/grigri/beer in hand, its not safe. I do climbing photography and top rope soloing and so often set up fixed lines. There is never sense in cluttering your anchor with more than you need. Is there a way to cut/release a rope anchor? comment sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment AcrobaticPitch4174 • It is clearly a horrible anchor, but it's worth analyzing to see just how horrible it really is, and what the possibilities are that it will fail. 67x the climber I assume you mean top rope anchors I would get a set of 4 D-shaped lockers. I suspected it was something involving top-rope and lead climbers sharing ropes. I wouldn’t want my rope being dragged over the lip with a climbers’ weight. Since you're no longer attached to the rope, it's kinda pointless at this stage to be tied in to the anchor only using your rope. They are both well secure, but I was wondering if their is a better way to join them at the end? They both have a carabiner on their ends and the rope is going through them. The last few times I went out, realized a 5 foot stick wouldn't of helped me use I would of literally been on the bank. I choose this anchor when climbers will be top roping and or the need to be above the anchor might arise. Slip it (unsealed open ends) over the rope to where you want it. Just use the climbing rope! You had to hike up in the first place, right? How much static rope do you want to carry? If you are managing a top belay in an institutional setting, other anchor systems provide better tools to keep a group of climbers safe around the edge. Ah, thanks. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. In that case, the load on each side of the rope would be 1x the climbers weight and the load at the belay anchor would be 2x climber's weight. For 95 % of my fall protection set ups I went with rope positioning, only when actual work was occurring at the leading edge,multiple workers on the system or the nature of the work required it, would I switch to horizontal life lines with rope grabs. Welcome to /r/slackline! Post pictures, stories, new locations, beginner guides, or anything slackline-related. Having said all that, the anchor is the one place you've got full redundancy, so only worrying about wear on the anchor draws seems kinda silly. . Reply reply betweenlions Agreed. Using the rope for the anchor is great for swinging leads, but for block leading, I prefer some other type of anchor. Or, you could set up a less-than-vertical 5. Since these features can often be set back several meters from the cliff edge (and you’ll want to capture multiple trees for redundancy), a beginner top-rope climber often appreciates having a dedicated bit of STATIC ROPE The angle is 0°, which is actually the best angle for equalizing and anchor. All points are redundant and lockers on all points can add more security for gate impediment. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the Lots of climbs share a common anchor that really shouldn’t. I have 4 BD Positrons in two different colours so I can use one pair exclusively for clipping into hangers and the second pair exclusively for the rope. It might be 90 feet of 5. The home of Climbing on reddit. A couple of rules: anchor is unquestionably strong, don't actually allow a fall ( restraint Build the rest of the belay Flake rope properly over your safety line as you belay, small loops to big in this situation. in a top rope anchor), a single locker isn't consider sufficient. Check out the “Joshua Tree N” style anchor which incorporates a tether—I’m a fan. Two extendable draws are my preferred setup (in case the anchor bolts are set wide or are placed vertically or offset). I’ve researched the anchor wizard which looks pretty good. Edit 2: this also works on the App Make one anchor, then clip the center of your top-rope into it. This is a user-guided community; join the discussions, ask questions, and share your experiences. Attach the rope-end of the 2nd and 3rd anchor as well, but don't anchor them yet. Try 9mm If worried about abrasion, get a length of 1" tubular webbing. It's also far safer to ascend a rope rather than attempt a top rope solo (which also requires knowledge of ascending, descending, and escaping the system). One sling is around a root of a gorse bush, and the other is around a large rock in the ground. Also I'm going to pick you up for using some terminology incorrectly, sorry about that :) Death triangle - Check No it isn't. Right now, I’m using an anchor attached to rope which is driving me crazy. Just like in the gym. Say you have a 30m/10mm static rope. When extending an anchor to top rope off of, you really want everything from the high master point to the low master point to be doubled, and the whole point of extending is to get the mater point over the edge, knot and all! Just use the climbing rope! You had to hike up in the first place, right? How much static rope do you want to carry? If you are managing a top belay in an institutional setting, other anchor systems provide better tools to keep a group of climbers safe around the edge. And then I looked at stainless chain prices. Of course, ice isn't always at the lip and you can chew up your rope on a sharp edge. Where i climb, 20–30m of 9–10mm static rope is common for building top rope anchors. Some times, I get too nervous and end up paying someone to do it, so the return on the cost of the harness would quickly pay for itself. If you have a top rope set up where the anchors are on top of the cliff, or out of visual range then it becomes a good idea to use locking carabiners. reccomend me anything though, ascenders/descenders, flip line with a steel core, gaffs, appropriate shoes, harness, ppe, your favorite tools/gear, your favorite setups, any advice, your favorite book on climbing techniques or knots First you find a climb you'd like to do, then scramble around the back to the top of the climb you want to do, set a gear anchor using nuts, cams, and a cordellette, and there's your top rope. Flip the rope onto their safety. Static rope is for anchors only and you need proper training (best received from a certified guide) on how to use a static rope for an anchor extension. So, I decided not to set it up. Its not hard to get you feet tangled in the rope and potentially trip and fall over the edge. We were at the Gunks so we had to sling two trees using static line. With rope you can tie a double bowline off on one, and the other can be whatever you want - a frictionless hitch, a bowline on a bight, or just some bight clipped to a sling around the tree. I’m pretty sure you could just do a sliding X with the long sling off the top and bottom and it would equalize perfectly and be just fine. cnyhvyf tqy aufkhdxr dmbe vinngt gkopvr icpquqp yrc knlacf mjpedu