Open hand vs half crimp vs full crimp Full crimping should be done sparingly, if at all. Hey all, After been mostly an indoor climber for 6/7 years, I’ve slowly been transitioning to outdoor bouldering. com Apr 13, 2025 · There are actually three different types of grips we can use when crimping: open hand grip, half crimp grip, and full crimp grip. Would be nice to match my current full crimp strength aka 5 sec hand on toms latice or 11 sec on BM currently at 10kilos asistance for half and 20 for open. Mar 6, 2025 · Thus, we cannot conclude that higher skilled climbers assess their strength capacities more accurately. Hence, we confirm that for deeper hold depths, using an open hand position has no force disadvantage when compared to the half-crimp. Both involve gripping with your fingertips and locking your finger joints. For all skill levels and both sexes, slightly higher forces in open hand than in half-crimp position werefound. As discussed in chapter 4, full crimping is mechanically stronger than open-handing or half crimping when on small holds. Same with full crimp, deadhang some full crimps for max hangs, if you can't do it with bodyweight, take some weight off. I think OP is probably better off focusing solely on half crimp, since open is coming along fine without any isolation training. I could hang 30+ kg on an 14 mm edge in the open hand position (4 fingers open). In my experience, full crimp is much stronger on the small holds, but comes with that greater risk of injury. In a half crimp, the index, middle, and ring fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle. It said that open hand would help half crimp but not full crimp. Dec 8, 2019 · In this video, we discuss the proper crimping technique for climbing injury prevention. The most common grip is the open crimp, which you should use most often when climbing. It seems like most good climbers I see get more power from half crimp and full crimp. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. I noticed… Jan 4, 2024 · The open-hand crimp, also known as the half crimp, is the most widely used type of crimp grip. Open Hand Mar 27, 2019 · Half Crimp. Methods. Half and full crimp with the red indicating the major stress regions of each type of crimp. Feb 9, 2020 · First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. ish) is plenty strong. Jan 4, 2024 · There are three basic types: the open crimp, the full crimp, and the three-finger grip. All three are important in climbing, and if you want to be a good climber, you shouldn't neglect any of them. I forget which book I read but it claimed that half crimp would help train both the open hand and full crimp. Mar 16, 2005 · 4. Apr 5, 2018 · training the full crimp and half crimp is fine. The half crimp grip is best used for climbing along surfaces with small holds and narrow edges. Full crimping is a much more active gripping style than half crimping. When u are going on a trip to magic with a lot small crimps, implement this into your routine. If you can't deadhang in a half crimp without having your hand open up then take weight off with a pulley so you can stay in the position and train it. To perform a full-crimp, perform a half-crimp, and then wrap the thumb on top of the index finger. Your fingers don't have the same engagement in the rung. Going to font, do the same with open handed or dragged hangboarding and some wristwrench work. Full crimp. In both the half crimp grip and full crimp grip, your index finger, middle finger, ring finger, and pinky grip the rock surface, and your fingers lock at the second joint. For beginners, it is recommended to do 2-3 sessions a week and do 10 sets of five hangs on a variety of holds with an open hand position. For both open hand and half crimp, the A2 pulley does not redirect the tendon, so has zero force. However if you are training open half only I agree with Sean that you need to also need to train full crimp as edge sizes begin getting smaller. Unless you are really pulling on that project, I suggest half crimping for the majority of your crimps. You need all angles of open hand to crimp to be a full climber. See full list on gripped. 37 votes, 20 comments. I'm very confident that the open hand grip is less likely to rupture tendons than the "full crimp" (thumb on top). Further, I'd recommend OP reviews the protocol. Half Crimp Open Grip GRUNDKURS BOULDERN Full Crimp Vs Half Crimp In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. Keep in mind that while either grip helps increase the power of your climb, they both pose a significant risk for Jul 13, 2021 · So, when training on a hangboard, you’ll usually start by holding a static position, the “dead hang”, with different hand positions like full-crimp, half-crimp and open hand. By leveraging your fingers into a position that squares your fingertips with a hold, the half crimp puts your hand in a position that makes even smallish edges feel quite secure. I recently did a cycle of only half crimp training, both 10mm and 25mm. Dec 14, 2016 · The lever arm is more favorable for both open hand, and semi open than for half or full crimp, so one should expect an underlying advantage for the more open grips. We practice half crimp to let our thumbs work independently on pinches, slopers and thumb catches AND as a less injury than full crimping all the time. The open-hand crimp, also known as the half crimp, is the most widely used type of crimp grip. I also only do max hangs (Crimpd 90%). This is screaming injury ^ stick with open drag, half crimp and (thumb on) full crimp. Apr 13, 2025 · There are actually three different types of grips we can use when crimping: open hand grip, half crimp grip, and full crimp grip. Working on both is key. This grip offers good power while reducing the strain on your fingers. Hence, the aim of this study was to determine how accurate climbers from different skill levels can assess their finger flexor strength in the half-crimp and open hand position. Open hand (fingers are greater than 90 degrees from the palm) Half crimp (around 90 degrees, very little or no thumb recruitment) Full crimp (less than 90 degrees, possible thumb wrap for even more power) As for why full crimp is strongest, the more you close your hand, the more forearm muscle you're recruiting. Crimping is commonly broken into three different grip types based on the angle of your fingers and the location of your thumbs called full, half and open crimp. My open hand and full crimp both improved (but not as much as my half crimp did). . Then I started doing half crimp hangboarding. Open hand is often necessary for dynamic motion and compression. The main difference is that your thumb is not wrapped over your index finger but instead, remains extended. The full crimp is more suited for square-cut ledges with a recess for better finger traction. To develop grip strength and endurance, climbers can incorporate specific training exercises tailored to both open-hand and crimp grips. Kind of a strange thing that doesn't quite make sense, wanted to see if any others have experienced the same thing. Therefore, this study aimed to determine how accurate climbers could assess their maximal finger flexor strength in half-crimp and open hand positions. Oct 15, 2021 · The half crimp position and full crimp position are nearly identical with one key difference. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. Jan 29, 2019 · I have now started to try to increase strength in a half crimp position. By using your pinky, you use most of the muscles in your Sep 22, 2022 · From a biomechanics perspective, half crimp will be weaker than full crimp or drag because full crimp includes direct force from the thumb and open includes passive tension/friction over the edge. If your open hand strength is that weak, open hand grips would be beneficial to train. I see the same hold/move getting done with full crimp, half crimp, and even drag sometimes. So open hand should be better for A3 pulleys than crimping. If you climb and open crimp things other people full crimp, you do the same moves with less risk of injury. Besides that, I would think a slow ramping up of your crimp related grips will eventually show progress. I reserve full crimps for anything that i simply CANNOT open crimp. However, the assertion made in the video that open hand makes it "much easier to pull up" on small holds is absolute bull. half-crimp: Do climbers assume World Championships in Bern and (b) the set-up of the full-size campus board in the laboratory in Zurich. Translates best. Building the robustness of the structures in our hand that the full crimp stresses takes patience, consistency, and time. With full crimping, your thumb locks a half-crimp into place and doesn’t allow it to fail. Typically training half crimp will keep this spread tight. If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed - the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever possible. I'm guessing yes because not having to full crimp everything could potentially mean less pumping out on sport routes (debatable bc full crimp actually feels more passive than half to me, but maybe there's some transfer to open hand), less stress on the finger joints (and faster recovery = more sessions), and more strength on holds where you can Aug 27, 2023 · Training exercises for open-hand and crimp grips. 但是 Full Crimp 是最费力，而且对关节压力最大的一种抓法，在刚开始攀岩的时候不要专门练习，避免受伤。 Full Crimp、Half Crimp 和 Open Hand 对比： 对岩点的抓握力： Full Crimp>Half Crimp>Open hand. Meaning, you can open your hand a lot more by dropping the pinky. The openness of a crimp grip refers to where our thumb is while crimping, and the angle our fingers and knuckles make while we crimp. Open-hand grip training may include hanging from a bar or campus board using an open-hand position for extended periods of time. Open vs full crimp is not right vs wrong. Avoiding certain grips might actually lead to increased vulnerability. Is it normal to find this quite a bit harder than open hand? Does anyone tend to progress this further to a full crimp? For looking to start weighted deadhangs, I was thinking of varying between open hand and half crimp (after longer working on increasing half crimp strength)? Sep 27, 2024 · The issue with full crimping is that, unlike a half-crimp, the ‘fail-safe’ in your body won’t react. Always try an open crimp first and focus on your foot Aug 15, 2017 · To half crimp, increase contact with the hold by bending 90 degrees at the middle knuckle. The index, middle and ring fingers are bent at 90 degrees, the pinky may be slightly straighter and usually contours the hold, and the thumb either rests next to the index finger or pinches the side of the hold, if possible. But started to train 3fd recently Nov 7, 2010 · the semi-open hand or half crimp position is very strong and covers a lot of bases, check out some video of someone on a campus board to see what i mean. I assume the pinch position has a very active grip position that emulates the half crimp isometric grip. If you have short pinky fingers, the difference between 4 finger open hand and 3 finger open hand is probably large. Hi there, I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. Half crimping stresses the fingers more than open crimping, but you will find that it is a much stronger grip. U never climb like number 3. Its two different techniques. Oct 4, 2017 · What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. OP just started hanging, and open crimp (whatever OP means, still, less than half crimp, probably 4 fingers open. Never had injuries so far. I think experienced folk would agree you want your spread to be kind of close between open 4 open 3 and half crimp. I've since more or less equalized my half crimp and open hand strengths, my numbers are roughly 120 lbs per arm @ 140 lbs body weight. 对关节的压力： Full Crimp>Half are stronger in the crimp position than the open hand position, but the crimp is linked to higher pulley forces, increasing the risk of finger injuries. The correlations with route grades were similar. Oct 29, 2020 · For climbing, this means building up our strength and resilience to the full crimp position in a methodical and controlled manner. The downside to favoring the half crimp (and the full crimp) over an open-hand grip is that the crimp position puts more pressure on your pulleys and tendons. The half-crimp will build strength for open-handing and full-crimping (to a limited degree) whereas the other grips are About Press Press I always end up with 3fd while trying to climb with open grip, because my pinky is simply to short. Unlike full crimp, you can use this gripping technique regularly. The full crimp came naturally to me from the beginning. Jan 31, 2022 · HALF VS FULL CRIMPING Half crimp training alone cannot fully prepare you to crimp with all your might on a tiny edge. The half crimp is characterised by a hyper extension of the distal joints and the full crimp grip is characterised by the addition of the thumb on the other fingers. If you find yourself using this grip on most holds, focus on using a half or open crimp to build up strength. The half-crimp is the utility grip, which is used for most flat, sloping and in-cut edges. Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. A full crimp is when your fingers on the crimp hold are at a full arch with your fingertips/finger pads and your thumb clasps on top of the hold. Train strictly half crimp. But training half crimp somehow made pinch projects way easier. There are only a few holds I can hold with 3fd. I also only started doing any hanging/off wall work, as an only-boulderer, after climbing at around V10 outside and with half crimp as an actual weakness compared to open and closed/full crimp. Full Crimp. As a result I would only full crimp if I really had to and otherwise try to pinch a lot of stuff or just open hand it. chris r. Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint to 90 degrees with extension of the distal interphalangeal (DIP) joint. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. The half crimp is a versatile and less strenuous variation of the full crimp, making it an important grip for climbers to Absolutely-- I only train half crimp because I am working on actively pulling. Depelop my open handed/half crimp strength. This fail-safe is when your half-crimp is compromised, and you fall into an open-hand grip. However, this is not good for your tendons and pulleys. 能控制的岩点大小： Full Crimp>Half Crimp>Open hand. In an open hand crimp, the fingers will be laying flat and ergonomically. I’m not convinced there is a big benefit to training true half crimp vs open half. The half crimp is a more sustainable grip. Crimping can help for far lock offs on edges. I would say, however, that I see a strict half crimp every single time I'm at the gym or at the crag. With a full crimp the redirection angle is 90*ish as well. So why is half crimp better than full crimp? Open hand vs. But for others with long pinkies, the degree to which they can open their hand, with and without pinky, is If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed - the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever possible. Half crimp is relatively weak. from publication: Clinical management of finger joint capsulitis/synovitis in a rock climber | This case I'll get 4 fingers on, drag the index, bump to a full crimp, move to gaston, extend to index-only whatever it takes that feels within my level of risk. For half crimping, the A2 has some redirection from the shear loading of the A3 pulley. I have been climbing for close to two years (3 times a week for one year) and have always just used open hand on crimps. So I'm used to half or full crimp almost everything. It really depends how long your pinky fingers are. In my right dominant hand on tiny… This is called full crimping! It exponentially increases the force on your fingers, meaning you can pull a lot harder. At the same time if I ever had to full crimp it would A) feel weak and B) feel super dodgy. Also, look at the joint angles of all your fingers. Jan 4, 2024 · Half Crimp or Open-Hand Crimp. May 15, 2018 · In this video we show the three different ways you can using crimping to exert more pressure on a hold. Is it normal to find this quite a bit harder than open hand? Does anyone tend to progress this further to a full crimp? For looking to start weighted deadhangs, I was thinking of varying between open hand and half crimp (after longer working on increasing half crimp strength)? May 30, 2007 · Another consideration is that the half-crimp is a more active grip, meaning that it relies more on strength (to resist leverage) and less on friction, so in an overall sense it will get you 'stronger' than the open-hand grip. Typically this means using a hangboard 1-2x/week with a slow and steady progression. Open hand grip is shown to reduce A2 pulley stress by 36 times in com May 1, 2024 · Full-Crimp: Many climbers see full-crimping as a tool for injury. finger strength in a an open grip position and boulder grade. May 29, 2014 · fully closed crimp grip = (a) second joint (PIP) from the tip of each finger is flexed at roughly a 90 degree angle; (b) tip bone of the finger is angled significantly backward/upward relative to the second bone; (c) first joint (DIP) closest to the tip is vertically lower than the second joint (PIP) in from the tip; and (d) the thumb lies over However he did say that he trains full crimp which would train the things the true half crimp position trains. When to Use Half crimp vs. While many have become injured while full-crimping, overuse and not listening to their body are likely the causes. The hand placement is the same as a full crimp. It’s best for most flat and incut edges, especially if the edges are larger, and can even be deployed on slopers and sloping edges. xvic geuco fjwnvo ophbgpo jkneq poatda fsixr xcz uexpyn hnyle