Trad climbing nuts vs hexes forum.
May 29, 2020 · Lead Climbing vs.
Trad climbing nuts vs hexes forum. The document has moved here.
Trad climbing nuts vs hexes forum . Yeap. The document has moved here. They place easier and set harder. Trying to master my gear placement though. com/jbmountainOr buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! https://teespring. It wasn’t until youngsters started clipping Mar 1, 2016 · I'm new to outdoor climbing and am trying to build a solid rack for all sort of top rope anchors. I find hexes fit much better and more securely in subtle constriction cracks and V cracks than nuts do. In the Gunks I'd bring mostly small-mid Totems, nuts (doubles on smaller sizes), a few tricams, and some ball nuts (although these would stay in my backpack on the ground unless I had beta I'd need them). Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams. Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. Can anyone tell me how to safely build a trad anchor out of only passive pro? Jun 11, 2012 · I grew up trad climbing in Australia in the 90s where bolts were something only occasionally seen as a rap anchor and the standard rack looked like this: 2-3 sets of nuts. Lots of knotted slings and loose biners Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome[1]. Because nuts cost much less than cams, it’s common to double up on the small sizes of the standard nut range for gear-intensive routes. Oct 28, 2016 · To learn more trad climbing skills, see the rest of our series, Learn to Climb Trad: A Complete Beginner’s Guide. Enough Hexes that the local rancher thinks his herd escaped. I just permanently removed my DMM Torque Nuts from my rack as they are never my first pick for a hex placement. 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. A large selection of nuts for a long trad route in Morrocco N uts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. I rarely use the hexes, occasionally use the tricams, often use the nuts, and same for my new cams. Most of the trad on the East Coast of the US was put up on passive Oct 17, 2024 · I have used the BD wired hexes, DMM Torque nuts and WC Hexcentrics. offsets nuts are really nice to have Sep 28, 2010 · Saved Content. Feb 20, 2021 · In short, cams will go most places hexes will go (more quickly and easily), but hexes won't go a lot of places cams will. Obviously this resulted in carrying more equipment so was heartily encouraged by gear manufacturers. Hexes? Post by jgb » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:11 pm I don't get to climb a hell of alot these days so when I do its usually on easy routes (F2 or 14/15), trad that is. The racks I bring to these two places are pretty different. The extendable slings on DMM ones are well annoying and the ones on wire have no benefit. This is different from toproping, where the rope is pre-hung at the top of the route. Trad climbing opens the door to the adventure of starting a climb well before the sun comes up and stumbling back to the car way after the sun goes down. Whether for trad or sport, the improved safety of technical climbing gear through the years has inspired more people to enjoy rock climbing. It wasn’t until youngsters started clipping Sep 28, 2010 · Hexes come in more sizes and I think are slightly heavier than Torques. They do also work in irregular/chossy/slimy cracks. Feb 11, 2016 · In my own humble opinion, and I bought these with my own money and don't work for or am a sponsor of Wild Country, they are the best hex on the market. I have about 60 nuts and hexes going up to Camalot #3, but no cams. Most trad climbing involves lead climbing, in which the rope starts at the bottom of the climb with the climber. Apr 22, 2020 · Most of my trad climbing experience is in two areas: the Gunks and Chattanooga. Double offset nuts 7–11. Ask about gear before you buy it and find out what others are using. I carry 3 or so hexes on any unknown trad line where they look appropriate. every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. I still have my trusty rack of a double set of nuts, 10 hexes and 5 cams. Sep 22, 2009 · British climbers appear to have a rather complex relationship with hexes. 5 and 5. buymeacoffee. Tricams. This 'hexes' article is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics. Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. So far my favorite things to place have been the DMM torque nuts (hexes), which have been quicker for me to place and much more solid when pulled from any direction. 3-6 cams. We made loads of mistakes, but none were dangerous. Want more in-depth training? Internationally certified mountain guides Rob Coppolillo and Marc Chauvin will teach you the fundamentals of trad climbing in our Intro to Trad 8-week online course. Help . Hexes are lighter, cheaper, and scare the bears away. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than plugging Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Post here for all your gear questions, rants and raves. set of nuts. History of Traditional Climbing Royal Robbins on El Cap. They are also lighter than the equivalent sized cam. Hex nuts can be placed in three different orientations when turned on their axis, thanks to their tapered, asymmetric side faces, allowing a versatile use in a multitude of cracks. Double nuts from 1–13. the size 1-4 Torques are pretty much similar to the wild country rocks 11-14, so they are great for the bigger sizes. Photo Credit: Tom Frost. Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams . Now I've got a pretty well rounded rack. com I'm learning trad and I've had exposure to a lot of different gear. You'll find in the UK, most climbers skip the cams for their first rack and will opt for hexes instead as they are cheaper and work very similarly to nuts. They don't seem to be commonly used though so what am I missing? Aug 8, 2022 · There are much smaller nuts, like RPs, and much larger ones, like hexes (see page 28 for more info on specialized passive pro). What do you guys suggest nuts or hexes which brands and what sizes are most commonly used so I know where to start buying equipment. Start So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. Also hexes work much better when you are Scottish winter climbing. Sending a hard sport climb is satisfying, but trad climbing offers a feeling of accomplishment unmatched by clipping bolts. Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments I admit when I did climb alot I only climbed 18/19, trad that is. Plus you have more sizes to work with. Those early adventures are accompanied by the traditional cow-bell clanging of these unpretentious pieces of equipment. Hexes are bomber ass placements in general and you can get like 5-6+ of them for the price of 1 cam where I live. I've never liked the cams much and would always go with a hex if I could and still will, admitedly on F2 I'm generally not hanging upside down on one finger when I place them. Nuts prefer to be organized by size and racked in groups of 4-7 per carabiner. Feb 16, 2023 · Kouba Hex nuts come in sets of 6, ranging from 13 mm all the way to 44. Trad Climbing Gear > Hexes; Trad Climbing Gear > Slings; Trad Climbing Gear > Tricams; Trad Climbing Gear > Ball Nuts; Trad Climbing Gear > Big Bros; Trad Anchors – Part 1 of 4 > Introduction; Trad Anchors – Part 2 of 4 > Equalizing Gear; Trad Anchors – Part 3 of 4 > Attaching to the Anchor; Trad Anchors – Part 4 of 4 > Belaying the Jan 13, 2022 · Hexes? Post by jgb » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:11 pm I don't get to climb a hell of alot these days so when I do its usually on easy routes (F2 or 14/15), trad that is. 1 Full set of slung hexes up to #9 or #10. Jan 22, 2010 · When I first started trad climbing all I could afford were nuts, hexes, and tricams. com/en-GB/stores/ Apr 24, 2023 · Double cams from 00 to No. My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. The main advantage of hexes is they will work in dirty, wet or icy cracks where cams are likely to slide out. Anything bigger than a size 11 nut just flops if you try and place it with the wire yet are just rigid enough to be more annoying on your harness. TN 1=Rockcentric 5+6, TN 2=Rock 6 5 days ago · Micro nuts are climbing nuts that have been engineered to be extremely tiny. Cramming all your nuts onto one carabiner makes it hard to find the one you want, and if you drop this carabiner, you'll have no nuts. Aug 1, 2010 · In reply to Roger Irrelevant: i have a full set of nuts (1-10) and then went a bought the torque nuts. e. Moved Permanently. Up until about a month ago I had to borrow other people's gear if I wanted to use cams. From placing/removing gear and Since moving back to NC, we used them rarely and when we do its usually one of the smaller sizes. Jan 8, 2024 · My Forums My Topics Search Forums Premier Posts Posting Guidelines . Honestly, I appreciate the history of passive protection, and would like to stay passive. Oct 17, 2024 · I have used the BD wired hexes, DMM Torque nuts and WC Hexcentrics. you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. Dec 25, 2016 · Hey guys, I am a fledging trad climber. 5 mm in terms of possible crack sizes in which to wedge them. Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. Have also used hexes a belay stations to save cams and used hexes to bail off routes in emergency. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. ETA: If you do get hexes, get the WC rockcentrics or DMM torque nuts. It's common to have 10-15 nuts split onto 2-3 carabiners for a typical climb. You can hammer them into icy cracks. This was just one article in a whole series on trad climbing. Cams are less likely to get unseated as you climb above them (but more likely to walk inward). May 29, 2020 · Lead Climbing vs. . ive used both torque nuts and rockcentrics and the torques overlap 2 rockcentric sizes i. Bought some gear and went trad climbing. They are certainly another tool in the chest for trad climbing. video-----Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the pro Post here for all your gear questions, rants and raves. Torques also come with an extendable sling, which the Hexes do not have. Feb 25, 2021 · The Future of Sport Climbing vs Trad Climbing. See full list on rei. However, they do have advantages over cams in certain situations. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. For everyday cragging, you won't miss them. Yeah. If you're starting on Granite splitters as mentioned above however, cams end up being safer and a more useful way to protect. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. Did that mean we used two singles as doubles, had so much rope drag we had to create a hanging belay mid pitch and took 3 hours to climb a single pitch . If this is happening to you with your Torque Nuts, then you are not setting them hard enough. 5-3 C4 cam size. Don't need to worry about your hex sliding out of that crack because it's torqued to heck inside of it. 4, plus offsets. NOTE: this forum is NOT for gear sales. Mar 26, 2018 · Myself and an equally incompentent friend chipped in to buy a book on trad climbing. Also, two 25-foot cordelettes, 12 alpine draws, five slings, six double-length slings, two prusiks, two rap devices in case you drop one, and 20 lockers because who knows? 2. Torques come in only 4 sizes but DMM say that they cover as much as Hexes anyway. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . Ive been using the Torques for the past few months and theyve been great. Oct 17, 2024 · Just curious as to whether people prefer wired or slung hexes for winter? I gifted my old set of slung torque nuts to a friend who was getting back into trad climbing at the start of this year so now looking to replace them as we're getting into winter. We tested all of the products in our review in a variety of rock types in places like Squamish, Eldorado Canyon, Yosemite Valley, the North Cascades, Smith Rocks, Red Rock, Joshua Tree, Zion, and more. For most of us starting out on easy trad climbs, hexes are usually amongst the first bits of gear we purchase and use. (Nuts are the foundation on which UK trad climbing is built). Jan 8, 2024 · Nuts and hexes are much more useful as a beginner (maybe not hexes as much). Search Hexes? Post by jgb » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:11 pm I don't get to climb a hell of alot these days so when I do its usually on easy routes (F2 or 14/15), trad that is. Nov 14, 2019 · Now, onto the differences between Trad and Sport Climbing. Back in those days, it was simply known as “climbing”. The Black Diamond Micro Stoppers are a popular choice, but the smallest sizes are only rated for direct aid. Toproping. WC every day for me. Others include the introduction to this series Trad Climbing 101, then Essential Trad Skills, How to Rack Climbing Gear, How to Build a Trad Rack, How to Build a Trad Anchor, and How to Belay from Above. Never used Hexes so cant comment on them. Oct 31, 2024 · This review focuses on climbing nuts used for protecting traditional free climbing routes as well as for aid and big wall routes. If you climb in an area that takes passive gear go for. 7). I will not be setting a top rope just off these nuts or hexes but just to incorporate them. It’s also allowed climbers to push the boundaries of possibility and attempt free climbing routes with minimal trad gear placements. Traditional climbing is the oldest form of Free climbing, perhaps rivaling even bouldering in age. Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos Sep 11, 2024 · A set of Offset Nuts (5 nuts) DMM or Black Diamond; Ideally, you'd add these as soon as financially possible: Totem: black, blue, yellow, purple (4 cams) Black Diamond C4: another 2 and 3 (2 cams) -A set of small nuts like DMM peanuts or BD size 3-7 ^This makes a full "double rack" (15 cams, ~10 nuts) of the finest gear available today. Read them all, and you’ll have a pretty good understanding of how to go about Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! https://www. Some of these climbing nuts can be as light as 4 grams but still hold 2kN. Initially made from actual machine nuts with the internal thread drilled out, they have undergone several stages of development in the last few decades, resulting in the wonderful colour-coded super-strong designs we ha Apr 23, 2022 · Nuts, Hexes and Tricams for Rock Climbinghttps://rockclimb. 6. gmjzwddhcagkccbzihzcquzhbdqansoronbnlnbmerda