Alpinesavvy rappel. This makes it easier to pull your rappel rope.

Alpinesavvy rappel. All you need is a friction hitch, long sling, and a modern belay device like a Grigri or “guide-mode” style belay device. Aug 29, 2018 · It’s rare, but you might someday find yourself having to rappel two full rope lengths on a single strand. Jun 2, 2024 · Extending your rappel device away from your harness has a host of benefits . Mar 27, 2022 · Lose that leg prusik! Did you learn in Climbing 101 to always carry a leg and a waist prusik loop so you can ascend a rope in a self rescue situation? Truth is, these are rarely needed, especially in rock climbing. Sep 11, 2022 · A middle mark on your rope is very important, for both setting up rappels and for safe lowering from one pitch routes. If primary anchor holds fine for them, it should also hold for the lighter person going down second. The highly advanced technique of lead rope soloing is one way to solve this unfortunate and unlikely situation. But, there’s three reasons why this is not the preferred method. Feb 8, 2024 · Belaying the LEADER directly from the anchor is known as a “fixed point” belay. Solution: the daisy chain. Jan 9, 2019 · But, before the PAS came along, many climbers used a sewn pocket daisy chain as a personal leash. Alpine Savvy. And hey, the sling as a whole is rated to 20+ Kn, right?. Nov 17, 2018 · It's best practice to run your rappel through some sort of metal connection to the anchor. But, there’s a few more tricks than the standard set up that can make your life easier. This “crochets” a rope into a series of short chain links, reducing the length by about a factor of six. In reality there are some nuances, and definitely some ways to letha Mar 29, 2019 · Here's another crafty way to secure the rope strands - a stacked rappel (aka pre-rigged) with an autoblock. Strength loss from knots in webbing and cord Here’s a nice diagram drawn by IFMGA Guide Georg Sojer @sojercartoon from an article by German mountain guide / Bergfuhrer Chris Semmel of the German Mountain and Ski Guides Association (“Verband Deutscher Berg und Skiführer” or “VDBS”). It works See more than 600 tips for anchors, belay, rappel, wilderness skills, mountaineering, snow & rock climbing, big wall, DIY gear making, first aid, and more. What’s a pre-rigged rappel? It’s when everyone on the climbing team (or, as many as can comfortably fit near the anchor) attaches their rappel device to the rope at the same time with a rappel extension. You can probably clip the bottom chain links with a large HMS carabiner and simply use that as your master point. Try to assist the tails of the rope through the carabiner, but do it carefully so your fingers don’t get caught. The second person rigs an extended rappel with autoblock, and puts both rope strands through a standard tube device. Apparently, when the rope is loaded from below, occasional device failure can happen for the person above. Sep 24, 2021 · It might be drilled into your head that you must always thread your rope through existing hardware when rappelling, but that's not always the case. The pre-rigged (aka “stacked”) rappel, can improve speed and reduce risk in certain conditions. Good news: there are some easy ways to eliminate this problem. Do yourself and everybody else a favor: cut away everything that's questionable and Aug 31, 2023 · Alpine Savvy Aug 31, 2023󰞋󱟠 󰟝 Pre-rigged rappel for an awkward rap station . Jun 8, 2022 · When rappelling, often the rope is going over a ledge. Here’s a fairly common mistake which can have a lethal outcome: clipping one, but not both, rope strands into your carabiner when setting up a rappel. Mar 26, 2020 · A belayed rappel is something many climbers think might be helpful only with a nervous beginner who needs the extra reassurance of a belay, or maybe an injured partner. Pay attention to the tail length. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em. Nov 29, 2018 · Scenario: You’re the last person rappelling on two ropes tied together, and you’re worried about the knot getting stuck on a ledge or crack near the anchor. Here are a few options. Works for both multi pitch and top rope. However, there are some nuances to doing it correctly, efficiently, and with reduced risk. Please, never consider doing this and always leave behind a $5 carabiner instead. When you run a weighted rope through anchor point (s) with the bottom link (s ( lying flat against the rock like this, the rope drags at these two spots and starts spiraling, which can put some serious pigtails in your rope. It's a great rule for most climbers in most situations. ) Dec 26, 2024 · Rappelling isn’t the only way to get down a cliff. and a few problems. Jun 17, 2023 · A rope block (aka Reepschnur), is a technique where you block one strand of your rappel rope to prevent it from running through the anchor. There’s another application - when you're rappelling into unfamiliar terrain with the location of the next anchors uncertain or nonexistent. However, each person is clipped to 1/2 of the anchor system, with no redundancy. Do yourself and everybody else a favor: cut away everything that's questionable and add some new material of your own to make an anchor that's more reliable and easier for others to inspect. This post covers: quad anchor tips, pre threading your haul pulley, the twist-free Munter rappel, how to cut webbing, and a caution on ‘open” slings. ) Sep 8, 2018 · A variation of the Munter hitch is the "Super Munter", which adds a lot more friction and therefore control over your rope. Aug 11, 2018 · The flat overhand knot (formerly known as the European Death Knot, or EDK) is a fine choice for general rappelling. Learn multiple ways to rig it, and the pros and cons of each. Do yourself and everybody else a favor: cut away everything that's questionable and Jun 7, 2020 · Find yourself at a chain anchor with a single huge ring or two equal lengths of chain? Lucky you, your anchor building may have gotten a lot easier. It's faster, because the moment one person is off rappel Sep 19, 2024 · Black Diamond recently collaborated with IFMGA Guide Mark Smiley to test the strength of different snow anchor configurations. Jul 7, 2023 · The “backside clove hitch” offers several options for efficient transitions from climbing to descending. (In the Portland Oregon area, the rappel off of Rooster Rock in the Columbia River Gorge has a notorious knot-eating crack at the top, and is a great place to use this technique. Below is a typical set up, with one locker draw Mar 8, 2023 · A simpler method that uses what you already would carry: Extend your rappel with a 120cm sling like shown in the alpine savvy article, be sure to tie a butterfly for ease of untying. Here are some more detailed tips about how to handle it. The general concept: the more Mar 24, 2025 · A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Sep 1, 2021 · The sharp edge might damage your rope, and if you rappel, the extra friction might make it impossible to pull your rope down. Jan 16, 2019 · Plaquette style belay devices like the Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso are great, allowing smooth rappels, to be rigged as an ascender, and to autolock when belaying your second. . With the bunny ears rig, the small loop knots are usually fairly easy to untie, giving you more rap anchor material. Dec 13, 2022 · Long lengths of skinny rope, such as a 6 mm rappel pull cord, can easily turn into a hopeless tangle if you're not careful. Here's a simple but unconventional technique that can allow teams to pass each other with greater speed and reduced frustration. Let's take a closer look. Here's just about everything you need to know about these ropes. Here's a simple and more secure method. Check out a recent article and video by Over the Edge Rescue on this. Jan 7, 2019 · The “backside clove hitch”? Is that something you might find in a San Francisco leather bar? Nope, it's a new approach to transitioning from climbing to rappelling. The belay anchor general principle of striving for “three good pieces“ doesn’t necessarily apply to a rappel anchor. This partially secures you while you build the rest of the anchor, and you can use the top carabiner of the draw as part of the anchor. Try this. It works best when you have a long tether and a well situated anchor: about chest height, and a nice ledge to stand on. Main concept: keep yourself close to the wall by placing gear. The “pre-rigged" (aka stacked) rappel . Interestingly, it shows that cord is May 15, 2025 · Five more quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Rappelling overhangs and/or traverses - part 1 What if you rappel over the lip of an overhang and find yourself swinging in space, unable to reach the rock? Or what if the rappel anchor below you is Rappel anchors - replace crap webbing . The last person to rappel removes the unweighted backup, relying only on the tested V-thread. But they do have one major drawback - if you need to lower your second, it's generally not safe, easy, nor intuitive to do so. Feb 16, 2019 · There is a right (and definitely a wrong) way to rappel with a heavy haul bag. See examples of strong and simple rigging here. com . Both have a static Dyneema core, both are 6 mm, and both are designed for different applications. Instead, be resourceful with the gear you probably already have. If you're worried about the bolts connect them with an Alpine draw and/or back it up with something. This anchor is only for rappelling, so the “rules” change a bit. This website offers information and ideas (not advice) intended to reduce your risk when climbing. Learn essential rappelling skills with our expert guides, tips, and tutorials for rock climbing, backcountry, and mountaineering safety. Nov 26, 2018 · Rappelling on ropes with two different diameters can cause the rope ends to be uneven, which could be a problem if you have a full length rappel. Learn a few here. Apr 24, 2023 · It's common to find a mess of cord and webbing at some alpine rappel anchors. Rigging a “courtesy anchor” can make things easier and safer for just about everyone. Oct 13, 2024 · This noggin-scratcher was solved in real life by Albin Thunander. Then, either clip or clove hitch yourself to the draw. The greater the angle, up to about 90°, the less force is put on the anchor. In this case, many people would be just fine with each partner clipping to one bolt as shown, and rigging to rappel. Jan 10, 2019 · Pre-rigging a rappel (known by some as a “stacked” rappel) is a common technique with guides and clients. May 17, 2024 · Using a skinny pull cord, in combination with a regular climbing rope, allows full length rappels with reduced gear and pack weight. I'm using about 2 meters of 6 mm cord to make an equalized, redundant and plenty strong enough rappel anchor from a stopper and piton. Yikes, your rope is too short, whaddya do? One answer: the extended rappel. There are a few considerations, pros and cons, learn ‘em here. Here's one way to use this tool: the second is lowered with an ATC on the anchor and the rope through the anchor hardware. If you have a tree, you can walk around it, or if that's not possible, put a long sling / cordelette around it and clip the rope to the sling with a locking carabiner Jun 14, 2019 · Often in alpine climbing, making shorter rappels can minimize the chance of your rope getting hung up. Backup with friction hitch. In-person instruction from a qualified instructor is strongly recommended for any Jan 26, 2019 · Most climbers don’t give much thought as to which strand of the rope they pull after a rappel. But, if you have ropes of significantly different diameters, are rapping with an extra heavy load, or just want a little extra confidence, here’s an excellent, easy-to-tie alternative. Learn about this and a few other Crafty Rope Tricks (CRT) to make your next rappel have a happy ending. Learn of some of the scenarios when this might be a smart move, and also how to set it up correctly. While that’s generally true, it turns out in some cases, a very narrow angle is not so good for load sharing. Also, learn some specialized crafty rappel tricks if you have a traverse or overhang. There’’s no need to pull up the strand that's fallen down, tie a stopper knot in it, and re-throw it - a big time saver. Dec 23, 2022 · With experience, it is acceptable to rappel off a single V-thread, but always implement an unweighted backup anchor clipped loosely to the rappel rope for the first person (s) down to fully test the V-thread. ) Apr 26, 2019 · Here's a photo from my article on alpine retreat anchors. Here are some good ways to do this. Here's an acronym to check all the relevant components. You're ready to rappel. Here’s how to fix this. See 400+ more tips like this at alpinesavvy. (I recently heard a story of a standard safety check that fortunately noticed this critical error, so it's on my mind Oct 16, 2020 · Many climbers love their Grigri for sport climbing, but think that it's 1) too heavy and 2) single purpose to bring for a long alpine route. Oct 14, 2019 · Here are some ways to use a locker draw. The bolts are solid, and you're standing on a decent ledge. The simple question is, what's your life worth? Feb 15, 2022 · Snarled rappel ropes suck! To avoid them, take the time to stack the rope and toss just a weighted end, rather than a large coil. Yes, you can probably use a Sharpie pen, but an easier and longer lasting option is the Beal rope marker. See 400+ more climbing tips like this at AlpineSavvy. com For the complete article: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: Sep 12, 2023 · When it comes to adding friction on skinny ropes while rappelling, it requires some practice, personal testing, and expertise. Nov 27, 2018 · Your big wall lead rack is pretty darn heavy, and it's going to be stupidly heavy if you take every single thing you need on a long, hard pitch. Connect with Albin on Instagram: @albinthunander. How would you get past it? Here’s one method. We cover toprope locker draws at this post. Jul 16, 2021 · Here’s a quick and effective way to make an anchor with your rope around an extremely sturdy single point anchor. Climbing tips and navigation resources for the savvy alpinist Mar 2, 2025 · Retreat (aka bail) anchors or not something you hopefully do very often. Now the first person can rappel with Grigri on a single strand. It has a host of subtle benefits, and it's a Crafty Rope Trick (CRT) well worth adding to your toolbox. Learn about Note on stacked rappels and ONE stopper knot: This may well be the best solution of all for multi pitch rappelling: Both partners (or at least the second) use an extended rappel and pre-rig with an autoblock backup. Is this really true? Let's take a closer look at why bringing a Grigri might be a smart move for alpine climbers. Learn how here. Explore DIY gear making and modification tips for outdoor enthusiasts. Many of the tips here are appropriate only for those with prior experience. Dec 12, 2023 · The always terrific Petzl website has a specific caution against a pre-rigged rappel with a Grigri on top. Dec 6, 2022 · Petzl makes two highly specialized ropes suitable for alpine climbers, the RADline and the PURline. Here are a few. It may not have much application in day-to-day climbing, but in certain situations, it is a very useful tool. Some of the results were pretty surprising! THE WEIGHTED LOAD-STRAND-DIRECT LOWER Watch on 1/14/19 Ascending on Rappel Watch on 1/13/19 9/19/18 Apr 6, 2023 · Do you need to do some improvised rope ascending? You don't need a designated waist and foot prusik cord. The traditional method of each climber using a tether/PAS to connect to the anchor, each person untying from their respective ends of the rope, threading the anchor, tossing each rope strand, and then each person rigging for a rappel separately, involves a LOT of steps and (usually Feb 2, 2019 · Placing a prusik hitch above your rappel device might initially seem like a good way to backup your rappel. As your partner descends, what's the load on the anchor? Is it your partner’s bodyweight, 2x their bodyweight, or something else? Apr 16, 2023 · Arriving at an bolt anchor with a small stance? A good first step can be to clip a quickdraw. Aug 31, 2023 · Pre-rigged rappel for an awkward rap station . But when you need to, there are some specific requirements. Apr 24, 2025 · In most rappels, getting the rope down is pretty straightforward: give each strand a toss and hope for the best. Oct 24, 2018 · Using a cordelette is standard practice for many climbers when building multi-piece gear anchors. ) Jun 24, 2020 · Need to tighten or maybe loosen a quick link you find at an anchor? If you have another quick link with you, you might be able to use it as an improvised “wrench”. Here are some solid tips to hopefully get you down in one piece, without creating too many (epic) stories to tell later. Oct 18, 2019 · If you forget your rappel device, drop it (whoops), or maybe you’re on a really long alpine climb with just a short rappel and don't even want to bring one to save weight (Mt. One of you keeps the “pull” pressure on, while the other suddenly releases their end. ) Try this #CraftyRopeTrick to move the knot past the Aug 9, 2019 · Need to move your team from a safe spot out to an exposed rappel station? From the crafty rope trick experts at Petzl, here’s one way to do it. What’s a pre-rigged rappel? It’s when everyone on the climbing team (or, as many of them as can comfortably fit near the anchor) attaches to the rope at the same time with an extended rappel. Jan 14, 2021 · A flat overhand bend is a good choice for connecting two ropes for a double strand rappel. Mar 5, 2024 · Yikes, your rope got damaged near the middle from rockfall, and for whatever reason you have to keep climbing up instead of rapping down. Aug 22, 2022 · When you need to rappel the same route you just climbed, the transition at the top can often be a big time suck. Older PostsJoin my email - get a Premium Article sampler Oct 13, 2023 · “Dang it, which rope strand do we need to pull, I forgot!” Here's a simple way to remember. Jun 22, 2025 · So how strong is the girth hitch master point? How about if one strand gets cut? Can you girth hitch a sling to a carabiner (and survive?) Here's an overview of various flavors of anchor rigging, and links to actual break testing. Even though this is designed for aid climbing and bodyweight only, the convenient pockets were too tempting to pass up. Here are some tips to hopefully get you and your partner down in one piece. If you rappel smoothly on a dynamic rope, the anchor will only see about 1-2 kN, and the direction of force will always be down. A daisy chained rope is pretty much impossible to tangle when stored, and easy to deploy when you need it. This sets up the rope perfectly for the leader to rappel. You can usually find him in the mountains around Chamonix. Think of it as “casting” a fishing line; there's a weight on the end, and the line spools cleanly from the reel. However, some rappel situations, such as: a single strand wet/icy rope skinny rope cold hands no gloves forgot your third hand friction hitch backup wearing a heavy pack or dangling a haulbag a rescue where you have the weight of 2 climbers on the rappel rope dark an icy, slippery slab a knuckle scraping overhang Jul 23, 2025 · Stuck rappel rope? Try the “rubber band” trick You start to pull the rap rope, but can’t get it moving. Watch the video for a scary mom Nov 23, 2024 · You’re rappelling, and unexpectedly came to a damaged section of rope that you didn't notice from above. Dec 23, 2018 · Sure, on a bluebird day, standard rappel practice is probably going to work fine. Learn all about it here. Here's one that doesn’t involve leaving a precious carabiner behind. All climbers need proper training and equipment, and to take personal responsibility for their choices. Apr 22, 2019 · From cleaning up messy rappel anchors to cutting away your partner a la Joe Simpson, carrying a knife for emergency or rescue purposes can be a fine idea. With this, you pull either side of the rope and it should feed Oct 22, 2021 · Pre-rigged rappel for an awkward rap station . This is typically a substantial tree or unquestionably strong rock horn. However, challenging terrain and conditions may require some specialized techniques. Jul 5, 2023 · You and your partner have a 60 meter rope, but you need to make a rappel that was bolted for a 70 meter rope. May 2, 2025 · A basic guideline for anchor building: narrow angles are good, wide angles are bad. Not as good as pliers, but probably better than just your fingers. A better approach is to be more creative with multi-use gear you're already carrying. But, it has some benefits that crossover well to recreational climbers too. It's good practice to backup the rappel anchor with another solid piece or two when possible. While you can put a rappel rope directly through webbing or cord, adding a metal connection gives an easier rope pull, makes the anchor last much longer, and avoids any chance 116K Followers, 651 Following, 1,010 Posts - John Godino | Helping you climb better, safer and smarter (@alpinesavvy) on Instagram: " ️ 550+ climbing tips on website ️ No ads, paid promotions or other fluff ️ Get a free sampler of top Premium articles ⤵️" Jan 7, 2019 · Doing multiple raps on a rope without a middle mark? Take a moment to add a temporary one so you can set up faster and safer rappels. Yes, the overhand bend will pass THROUGH the Munter hitch and carabiner! (Like I said, Crafty Rope Trick for sure!) If you're lowering someone, if they can stand up for a moment Aug 29, 2018 · It’s rare, but you might someday find yourself having to rappel two full rope lengths on a single strand. Fixed point belay at the belay station: Advantages & disadvantages – Tutorial (20/43) | LAB ROCK May 17, 2024 · Don’t load both strands when rappelling If you rappel with both strands through your ATC, it's important to remember it's a single strand rappel, and keep your brake hand and third hand/autoblock on the real climbing rope. One other option is the self-lower. May 15, 2024 · What seems like a pretty simple question, “What's the best way to connect a tether to my harness?”, turns out to have no single answer. Now, before you roll your eyes about this being an old-timer technique from Apr 29, 2019 · Especially on alpine routes, you can count on occasionally finding a rappel station with just a single marginal connection for the rope. Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. There's a few ways to back it up. A normal multi pitch anchor doesn’t require locking carabiners on the bolts. It's common to find a mess of cord and webbing at alpine rappel anchors. Explore expert tips, NorthWest climbing guides, and mountaineering resources to improve your outdoor skills and trip planning. You and your partner grab opposite ends of the ropes and pull, hard. But, the strand you pull can make a difference in avoiding snags. (This tip courtesy of Climbing magazine. Conceptually it's pretty simple. Sep 22, 2024 · Someday, you'll find yourself at a rappel anchor that is Less Than Ideal. But, it’s actually more of a situational and subjective guideline than a black and white rule. Learn how it works, along with some cautionary notes. Apr 14, 2025 · Quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Having the second person with their rappel device already on the rope and an autoblock fixes both strands of rope for the first person down, and the rope therefore can never slide Yes, we hate to leave gear behind, but if you HAVE to leave your beloved #3 Camalot for a rappel anchor, then do it without hesitation. May 27, 2023 · Say you’re lowering your partner from a top rope anchor, with the rope running through one carabiner. However, if your tether is short, and/or the anchor is awkward (or even on the ground Aug 16, 2023 · Rappel anchor is flat against the rock: How to rig for the easiest rope pull? . Learn how to craft and modify equipment for mountaineering, climbing, and adventure activities. Learn some of the factors that may influence this choice, and see some examples of non-redundant anchors in action. Warning: Climbing is dangerous. Oct 8, 2023 · Alpine Savvy Oct 8, 2023󰞋󱟠 󰟝 Rappel safety check: be sure BOTH rope strands are clipped to your carabiner . Nov 27, 2018 · Rappelling with a group , especially with newer climbers, can take a L O N G time. Sep 8, 2022 · The pre-rigged rappel anchor and belay . May 22, 2021 · Rappelling when you have an overhang and/or a traverse can be especially challenging. This post covers: 1) rappel anchor backups, 2) route hardware bolting tips (stainless steel!), 3) using “rack pack” carabiners, 4) a crafty Klemheist hitch variation, and 5) how to rack an adjustable tether so it won’t trip you up. This post covers: anchor shelf on a tree, “casting” (not throwing) a rappel rope, block leading tip, proper tails on flat overhand knots, and a caution on girth hitched rappel rings. 1,918 likes · 2 talking about this. Discover expert tips, gear guides, and route maps for big wall climbing and mountaineering on Alpinesavvy to enhance your skills safely. Feb 2, 2019 · When the knot connecting the ropes arrives at the carabiner, continue lowering (or rappelling) slowly. Longer is not better, and has been the cause of fatal accidents. For the complete article: 1) Go here: Mar 25, 2019 · There are times when lowering, rather than rappelling, is a smarter way to get down a route. (Warning: anchor nerds only. Nov 27, 2018 · On longer alpine climbs, bringing a cordelette gives you a ready-made source of material for rappel anchors. With this, you pull either side of the rope and it should feed Oct 5, 2024 · Need to shorten your connection to the anchor when using a tether? It's common to unclip and reclip your locking carabiner, but this can increase the chances of clipping it incorrectly. This makes it easier to pull your rappel rope. Dec 31, 2018 · Note on stacked rappels and ONE stopper knot: This may well be the best solution of all for multi pitch rappelling: Both partners (or at least the second) use an extended rappel and pre-rig with an autoblock backup. Olympus, I'm looking at you) the somewhat old-school technique of a carabiner brake can offer a smooth rappel with gear you already have. This added friction can make your rope pull more difficult, but it also reduces the force on the anchor, which can be a good thing. This lets you do a single strand rappel on the other side. Click the “Get Skilled” menu link to get started. Here’s a Crafty Rope Trick (CRT) to cut that time almost in half. Here are several of them, in a great little diagram from the clever Petzl web gnomes. Oct 19, 2018 · Does your larger climbing team have two rappels ahead to make it to safe ground? Here’s a simple way to speed up the process. Feb 7, 2019 · What’s slick about this system? You always have two points of contact to the rope (three, after you tie a backup knot, and technically four, because you’re tied into the end) You can lower yourself/rappel if needed with the Grigri at any time It requires a minimum of gear, most of which you probably already have on a big wall climb It uses some mechanical advantage to raise your weight You Mar 3, 2019 · Extending a rappel anchor master point over a ledge can make for an easier rope pull, but a tougher start to the rappel. Albin is a Swedish IFMGA Guide Candidate, and he shared with me the details of how he dealt with this. Rappel anchor is flat against the rock: How to rig for the easiest rope pull? . This really comes into play on multi pitch double rope rappels. There’s three common options for this; learn the pros and cons of each one. As you start your double rope rappel, clip your tether carabiner to the rope that needs to get pulled. But a top rope anchor, which may be unattended throughout the day and have many people climbing on it, may benefit from having at least one locker draw. Here is a simple, fast and unconventional way to get past the knot. Jul 21, 2020 · Do you need to rappel, lower off, or redirect a lower from an anchor rigged like the top photo? Be prepared for some possible rope twisting. Dec 27, 2018 · Having a standard system to check your rappelling set up before you head down the rock is a fine idea, especially for beginners. Here are a few tips how to use it, including the not so obvious way to open the bottle. Then, bounce test the anchor, and send the heaviest person down with the biggest pack first. It’s from a German climbing magazine, here’s the original. While some people feel strongly you should always use your tie in points, the truth is that the “best” method depends on a few different factors. Rappel anchors - replace crap webbing . Aug 18, 2023 · Rappel ring overview . The primary reasons to use this: Prevent the belayer from being violently yanked into the air, slammed against the rock, and potentially being injured or even losing control of the belay Reduces the force on lead protection due to rope slippage Allows a greater chance of actually holding a factor 2 fall. While you can put a rappel rope directly through webbing or cord, adding a metal connection gives an easier rope pull, makes the anchor last much longer, and avoids any chance of the rappel rope (s) sawing through the anchor, which can happen if you have two ropes of different diameters. Dec 27, 2021 · Creating redundancy in rappel anchors Say you have a rappel anchor like the one shown below. You want it at about 30 cm, or the length of your forearm; not too short and not too long. Ideally, rappel hardware is perpendicular to the rock. Here's a trick to mitigate that problem even further. In this case we’re using a rock horn. (Sorry there, last person . b 1) Bolted top rope anchor. Nov 22, 2019 · Redundancy is one of the tenets of anchor building, for good reason. Instead, just take a light tagline, and pull up gear as you need it. On a larger diameter rope, lowering extra heavy loads like haul bags or two people at once On a smaller diameter rope, lowering a person or rappelling Rappelling Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Feb 15, 2024 · On multipitch rappels, you can save a surprising amount of time by using a few simple time-saving techniques. Apr 7, 2024 · The reason for the horizontal hanger is so the ring hangs perpendicular to the rock. Jan 8, 2024 · Continuing our dissection of ski mountaineering rappel systems, we explore various options for rappel extensions/tethers and third hands. ) Premium Art May 24, 2025 · At some point, all climbers will have to rappel down an unknown route. I first heard of this trick from @tiffany_hensley, thanks Tiffany! Nov 11, 2018 · It might first appear like a bit of rope sorcery - How can you attach a rappel ring to a sewn runner? Each one of them is a closed loop! Read and learn, young Jedi. Oct 1, 2020 · Attach a locking carabiner and rappel device to the double loop, and your anchor tether locking carabiner to the end of the single loop. jczreen eojdo jvt fky wkg wgk guda yuw hkpmu zyx