Offset nuts climbing reddit. That's off-fingers to hand.

• Offset nuts climbing reddit. V12outdoor, for example, sell the pack for £139. I respect that dmm offsets are probably better but a literal machine nut on string will make bomber gear on solid California granite in exfoliation regions where you get a lot of segmented cracks with good tapers too them. I wish I would have purchased all dmm cams after using those nuts and seeing that dmm factory tour video. BD #4 comes in handy sometimes for sure. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. While they are high-grade nuts and have many positive features, they don’t quite measure up to the DMM Wallnut and Offset. the WC dont seem to fit very often, and at least in pictures the trango or BD look closer to the DMM. Offset nuts are nice but you can get by quite well without them in most places (I still don't own a set). You are very lucky to walk away uninjured I took a 40ft once when my bad microcam placement failed and ended up 15ft off the deck saved by a #7 offset nut. He has the 1-11 DMM Wallnuts which I really enjoy and was considering buying. I used them on wonky, seamy granite cracks, and loved how deeply they seated in pinches, flare boxes, and tapers—you can rotate the nut to get just the right “seat. Occasionally some runners over the shoulder. I’ve been told to avoid hexes, but if you feel strongly, I’d love to hear why. And yes we are scared of falling. For nuts and other climbing hardware, check out the deals at GearSnag. I haven't heard people say much praise of ball nuts other than that's the only thing that would fit; they didn't feel great climbing above it, and when fallen on you are gonna have a hard time removing it. Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. Glossary Downturned - the general shape of the shoe, and more specifically the angle of the toe and foot posture. What is stopping be from using a nut on a horizontal for at least some pro. BD stoppers and ABC huevos are pretty similar in shape. 10 trad climbing as well as alpine stuff. Get the big ones and the tiny ones (like DMM peenuts, e. 3-#6 $120 offset brass nuts $100 black totem $25. 2) and below that blue ballnut and brass offset nuts for granite After about 5 more feet of climbing, I placed a small offset nut. Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. TL;DR: niche piece & couldn't Totems to black (bd 0. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. A crowd sourced choice will give you a nice averaged answer. The groove down the centre of the DMM nuts can be placed around irregularities in the placement which will help hold it in place. Someone else cited it in this thread somewhere. FYI DMM offset nuts are 20% off on backcountrgear. Starter rack is complete! Any tips for a new trad climber? Would love to hear all sorts of experiences and advice! Because they theoretically are rated for higher loads than many other cams of the same sizes and everyone has loved they are offset nuts. Add a set of offset nuts, a green and a yellow cam and you've got the rack I started out with. I'd hop on Mountain Project, a local Facebook climbing group, or pay a visit a local gear shop and ask what a good starter rack is for where you will be climbing the most. I use them way more often than regular nuts. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. Generally when a guidebook says "a single rack" that is what they mean. Reply reply Sloppo_Toppo • This is it Reply reply haskie69 • I’d whip on that Reply reply More repliesMore repliesMore replies Mandarkar • Nice grogri Reply reply Gold-Log-2011 • Potentially from space Reply reply r/climbing Outside of offset nuts, diversifying your cams may help. Draws, alpine draws, runners and double runners split left and right side in that order. My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. And I really love them nuts. What does r/climbing suggest as a hole pattern? Any advice? A place to post bigwall-specific climbing discussions, videos, trip reports, and other obscurity. Offwidth climbing is the best climbing. HB Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. I consider offset cams a specialty piece and rarely carry them. These are not their famous offset nuts. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re getting the best climbing nuts? With climbing experience, you build your own personal preference. After about 1 year with this you'd probably want to add Backcountry $730 camalot package . That's off-fingers to hand. You have two choices: The same Superlight Rocks in the same size, but only available from September 2023. I'd also get a set of offset. Reply reply I often see gear placements rip out in YouTube videos of people falling. " includes gear to build an anchor and gear to attach oneself to a (bolted) anchor to set up a rappel if necessary. Just regular nuts. DMM offsets are great nuts but there's only 5 of them, so if you buy a set of regular nuts (DMM wallnuts are again awesome, but most brands of nuts are also good to great) you'll have 10 more pieces. We used each while ascending wind-blown alpine If the climbing is hard, it's definitely easier to place a cam where you could have placed a regular nut, and an offset can usually go in as well. 5-3 right front. Skip the BD stoppers, also ‘meh’. When climbing multi pitch routes, you’re definitely going to want a larger selection of widgets. I appreciate every placement is different and should be judged on its individual merits. Their offset shape fits better in flaring valley crack. Edit: Also can't deny I enjoy placing an old machine nut slung on cord, occasionally. 5, 0. Secondly: If for example BD stoppers are being placed everywhere, over time, the placements will have been prepped and worn to So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. Also another reason why So here's the situation. They're a specialized piece of gear, not necessarily suitable for everywhere. If you I’ve been trad climbing for a while on my friends rack and am looking to start building my own. 1 but DMM Dragonflies would be a good alternative. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. DMM nuts can also be harder to clean for this reason. The same one which kept me off the ground as a single piece of protection 20+ feet above the ground. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. Wich is the best cheap online sites (I can have it picked up in US). Anchor lockers, belay and bail gear behind that and/or on the haul loop as needed. Also a set of offset nuts including RPs (DMM brass nuts). Feb 29, 2024 · What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. Lesson learned. Some places like Yosemite really love offset nuts and smaller cam like a black totem. For example, in some places offset nuts and tricams are invaluable, and other places they're specialty pieces. Even if you take into account a BMC discount at Cotswold, they're about even. If you’re climbing 5. Is this correct? Sep 24, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I'm a sport climber, but a couple of my climbing buddies will only do trad. For free climbing I have a set of bd micro nuts (the original non offset ones) and a partial set of metolius astro nuts. Small cams and C4 0. I've recently had a lot of success following a Lattice rehab plan for A2 pulley strain, which largely consisted of a no-hand density "hang" protocol. I called it "lucky one" as it usually fits nearly every DMM wallnut, size 3. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. 4. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than Reddit's rock climbing training community. Good luck! Get out to Seneca and Old Rag too, they are I've personally found that normal nuts usually kinda fit in offset placements, but offsets fit terribly in non offset placements. The home of Climbing on reddit. I would appreciate hearing personal experiences and Jul 24, 2025 · They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. Is it worth picking up a second set of nuts, either DMM offsets, BD or others. Also, two 25-foot cordelettes, 12 alpine draws, five slings, six double-length slings, two prusiks, two rap devices in case you drop one, and 20 lockers because who knows? 2. Side tangent: I think rating 1-10 is pointless Gear falls into three categories: body weight only, likely to hold, will hold; Basically, evaluating past, “do I need to back this piece up?” saps mental energy and Arno Ilgner Jan 6, 2020 · The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular “ brassy ” or micro nut on the market, and with good reason. 4, plus offsets. Jul 16, 2025 · Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. Plus long runners to extend gear. I always rack at least two. 7). After that trip I bought a set of DMM Offset nuts and when I returned for some more climbing it was magical. Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you're getting your first gear for trad climbing. Although some people prefer to use hexes instead of the larger size nuts. 6. 5 to 2 or 3. Instructing, Coaching, Guiding and Approved Mountain Training Course Provider. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. I really like my WC Zero's for 0. Is this true in NC? 160 votes, 41 comments. Two reasons. Climbing in the Adirondacks a lot (where many cracks are flaring), the offsets make protecting the climbs a lot easier. What do i need incams, nuts, carabines, slings and so on. We tested each through a wide range of fissures, scar pins, parallel-sided cracks, around blocks, and the like. Here's what you need to know. I What should I look out for or ask? What percentage of the original price should I look to buy gear at? UPDATE: Thank you for the advice! I bought gently used sets of Black Diamond offset nuts and DMM peenuts from somebody who tried trad a couple times last year and decided it wasn't for them. 8 oz, the full set of Black Diamond’s new Offset Stoppers (#7–11) has mad bang for the buck, with each piece offering four tapered, vari-sized, trapezoidal facets. 5cm) between each row vertically and another suggested holes in an 8" by 8" (20cm by 20cm) grid. 2 and sometimes the plastic piece that guides the trigger wires can be troublesome in tight places. 454 votes, 105 comments. com Open Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A andrew314159 • . Not having a whole set of cams will force you to learn to set nuts properly and inventive ways. Offset nuts and micro nuts How have you been living with just that old square rack of nuts? Here's a quick rundown on why ball nuts might be better than similarly sized cams from Sierra Mountain Guides: Demystifying the Ball Nut. There's lots missing, so offer feedback and potential additions in the comments and I'll do my best to curate this post into something we can refer people/the FAQ to. offsets are much more a clean aid climbing thing. I've read lots of posts of people raving about the Alloy Offsets, but very little user information about Superlight Offset Rocks. Jan 5, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Double offset nuts 7–11. So I'm building a 10'X10' (3m X 3m) bouldering wall in my home and I've seen a few different patterns for placing the tee nuts in the wall, one site suggested holes every 6" (15cm) horizontally with 3" (7. These tiny pieces of passive protection revolutionized what is possible with traditionally placed gear when they were first released. The normal Rocks in equivalent size/colour (available now) Note, if you own the Bought offsets cams for the gunks, sold those offsets to someone who doesn't climb at the gunks. Double cams are nice to have but really depends on where you're climbing. As small as a . climbing. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Buying used gear can be a great way to save money. 50 versus Cotswold's £155. ). Should I be spending on a . 1 cam what model do you recommend? id also get either the trango or BD offset nuts. Jun 29, 2021 · A description of the key items you need to start building your own rack for traditional or lead rock climbing, including karabiners, nuts, hex’s, cams and tips on how to use them. You get to double up on the middle sizes, they’re not as aggressively offset so they still work well in normal placements, and they’re significantly lighter. I myself want to add a set of non offset small stoppers to round out my rack. That little gold wire held my first fall, and ever since, brings on good feelings on a lead. Something like offset or more curved nuts could be useful. awesome thank you, any advice for removing the corrosion? Recomend staying away from the WD40 to prevent cross contamination of your soft gear. com you can also add a 10% off your order by adding "10percent" as a code. What do people prefer? What's the return on doing a 4 inch grid, etc? Thanks. Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. Totally agreed! I mainly climb on gritstone and I find that I place tons of cams but whenever I go to the Lake District or North Wales it’s offset nuts all the way. The super light offset especially that thing fits anyway Get some nuts and that will probably carry you into plenty of 5. Even now, after several updates and a lot more fierce competition, they remain one of the very best nuts for the For your first set of nuts , you should buy whatever is the most popular with experienced climbers at your local crag. They sometimes become a favourite piece. I need some recommendation on what to buy an where to buy. This 2 sets Ball Nuts #1 blue and #2 red (My favorite piece of gear, since you asked) 1-2 Complete sets of Brass Offset Stoppers 2 Complete sets of Offset Wild Country Superlight Rocks 16 Matching DMM Alpha Sport Draws or Petzl Spirit or The Edelrid Bulletproof in 17cm or longer length 16 Matching Camp Nano 22 or Petzl ange S Alpine Draws. Thank you greggrylls and Edek for answering my question sincerely. Also you’re gonna want way more alpine draws if you’re doing multi pitch, especially if routes wander. 2 through 5 and singles of 0 through #8. As both #11 nuts in both brands are about the same size. Has anyone tried both the DMM Alloy Offsets and the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks? I'm wondering how they compare. T nut spacing for home walls? I've read that most folks do a 8 inch offset spread that puts 72 t nuts per 4'x8' plywood panel. Some offset nuts maybe? I use mine loads but I’m climbing a bit harder than you. I’ve currently got a single set of DMM Wallnuts and a single set of BD C4s. Farther north, where the major geologic process is Feb 6, 2018 · Whether or not to get offset nuts largely depends on where you climb. There are always people selling Why only passive pro? I've climbed with a set of nuts (at this point it's entirely random - i've lost a few and bootied a few), but I have never wanted anything else besides cams. They work fantastically well with climbing in Leavenworth :) buying a whole rack of offsets is pretty ludicrous for free climbing. Alpha Trad draws, Oz on my cams. Based on your experience of falling off trad climbs, how often has a piece popped/ripped? This poll is aimed at people who are regularly falling off. Multiple times he says that they are a niche piece of pro with marginal holding power in all but perfect placements. Here’s how it is done. I'd recommend some Offset nuts (e. i place an offset nut 4 times for every regular nut, and feel like i could skip the regular nuts altogether and rarely miss them. Wild Country Rockcentrics are an excellent choice. I’ve never been climbing in Cornwall so I don’t know exactly what it’s like there but I do loads of trad in Scotland and a bit in Wales. 5-3 on c4's and a set of nuts too, that's a good starter rack. This gets you a "minimal single rack". I asked about falls, placements, and how it was stored. Reddit's rock climbing training community. The gear was already getting harder to place at this point, the nut passed a few tugs and looked decent, so again, I moved on and kept climbing. Good price point, reliable, and all your future partners will be familiar with them. I am just back from climbing trip in Dolomites where I placed a red DMM offset which became stuck (according to my partner who couldn't get it out). Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. when I'm not climbing that style, like if I'm on aeolian granite or breccia I'm largely loving cams Echo everyone else. My biggest takeaway was that I should have been placing more gear, and didn't because I let me ego and over confidence get in the way. If it helps I carry a set of DMM Wallnuts (similar to you bd stoppers) and a set of DMM alloy offsets and plan to add a set of peanuts to this. Before you rope up for your first trad lead, you need to know how to place and extend gear. I am thinking of buying some trad gear online. Good nut for columnar basalt? I have been looking into buying a set of nuts to use as supplimental protection on sport routes which tend to be quite run out (depending on grade) where I am. Aug 31, 2016 · Perhaps the offset nuts are overkill for a beginner rack but it's a decent deal for the package. Very overwhelmed on where to start. Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. And ive got one #4 and one black alien. 8mm spans via Trango). If you're looking for being able to use a wide variety of sizes these are the ones you want (especially if price isn't an issue). However, I'm a broke high schooler, so I can't really afford cams, and I don't want to get too invested in it. The On slightly flared placements nothing fits like DMM Alloy Offset nuts. 75-2 all the time. However I am curious, and also building my own confidence for taking falls. Unless you know it is the perfect piece, just ask how many free climbers actually use a whole rack of these. You’ve got a good start though!😊 Reply reply WeirdoClimbing • Weekend Whipper: Two Nuts Rip, a Third Unclips. Looking for some advice for the local trad rack for Ontario limestone single pitch climbing. Pink tricam This gets you to a full fledged rack and will get you up durn near I purchased some dmm offset nuts and the quality and care into the design and manufacture that goes into them is astounding. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. While I've never used ball nuts myself, they may be worthwhile to use in place of your smallest nuts on routes that are tiny runout cracks as they provide a bit more protection (7kN compared to 2kN for 3. Has anyone had a chance to try out the new BD Offset Stoppers? How do they compare to the DMM ones. trueEDIT: Some interesting info During the recall claim procedure, you need to select which Superlight Rocks you are sending in, and which nuts you would like as a replacement. 5 and 5. It’s “weather” if you count all of mountaineering, slip-and-falls in rock climbing specifically, and you can’t even count rappelling as “while climbing” because it’s not while climbing. Buy the DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts online or shop all Climb from Backcountry. But for micronuts you probably don't want, or can't use, a cam, and a finicky offset micronut isn't confidence inspiring. Tricams. i personally have the DMM offsets and the wildcountry offset rocks. Personally, the DMM offset nuts go up with me on every pitch. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. Worth noting that several specialist climbing shops offer the pack for cheaper than Cotswold. Winners have been wild country rockcentric 3 (yellow), wild country superlight offset 6 (red), and a black diamond micro stopper. They can be more difficult to clean though. So my question is, can you climb trad with only nuts and Peenuts and wallnuts. The black totem cam, pink tricam and blue offset nut have a sort of cult following amongst trad climbers, E1 is just a British trad grade :) Reply reply More repliesMore repliesMore replies I initially got Metolius offsets for aid climbing in the valley, but started bringing them on free climbs. ” With Description Tenaya Offset Nuts: Precision and Reliability for Every Climb Elevate your climbing experience with Tenaya Offset Nuts, designed for climbers who demand precision and reliability. 18K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. I climb in Squamish and cannot say enough good things about the black Totem. Offset nuts I've been reading john long's book on trad anchors and I am pretty surprised how much he shits on offset nuts. Reply reply PulpFiction849 • Feb 2, 2024 · Our Runner Ups for the Best Climbing Nuts for Trad Climbing While these nuts didn’t quite make the cut into the favorite’s position, they are still recommended by many trad climbers as well as having positive reviews from many experts. (and yeah, they are slightly harder to place correctly). Climber Decks. I currently have a set of C4's, nuts, and a few hex's. Apr 11, 2018 · Black Diamond’s Offset Stoppers Weighing only 8. Would I be better served by doubling up my C4's or buying a set of Master Cam's for climbing in the Valley? 4: Gear, Ive got doubles between 0. Trad climbing is constant critical thinking and judgement calls. These will give you a good range of sizes. Gates IN. The Hugh Banner offsets strongly resemble DMM's HB Alloy Offset Nuts just without the colored anodizing on the heads. Aggressive Nuts Buying Guide Double Cap Read Time - 9 minutes May 2020 Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. I do use offset nuts though and they've saved me a few times but aren't required. From a perspective of WA State climbing, you should be good with what you have at the moment. Additionally they will match the DMM offsets which everyone also swears by (BD now makes offset nuts, never tried em tho). I had the bd's first and they are pretty versatile (twist them if you want a taper) and hold up to use/falls pretty well. Always bomber and covers the equalization issue by only having one direction of pull. . redundant because its a nut and a quickdraw (attached to the nut). Would eventually like to try some climbs at Bon Echo as well. This is a brief attempt to wrangle all of our "OMG what climbing shoe" posts in one general direction. I carry offset nuts far more Offsets seemed to be easier to place for me. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Are they really that good? Is this obsession just my immediate environment or is it because offset nuts are really that great? Depends where you'll be climbing. What unpopular opinions do you have on climbing areas, conventions, disciplines, or culture? One thing to note is that if you have a full set of DMM Wallnuts, you can expand your nut selection by getting Wild Country Rocks sizes 12, 13, and 14. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 1 cam next? brassies? offset nuts? Ball nuts? If I do go with the . I was told by my one trad climbing friend that the ball nuts and hex’s are super specialty and that I should just get the offset nuts because there’s nothing an offset can do that a regular stopper can’t but there’s plenty of placements a regular stopper won’t work in that an offset would There are plenty of great placements for normal nuts on all the routes I climb. Apr 11, 2012 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. If you want to blow money, best bang for the buck to feel super secure is to upgrade your nuts, the DMM offset alloys (and brassies in #1-6) would do much better than your BD nuts. Even climbing on Little Cottonwood Granite with weird flares and pin scars, one of my Metolius cams or an offset cam/nut fit the same or better than an equivalent Totem. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. However, let's talk about that cam. A full set of nuts and offset nuts. Anybody know why DMM and BD offset nuts stop at BD #11 or equivalent? I'd totally be down with a #12 and #13 offset nut. If you want two racks of nuts? Do it. Apr 24, 2023 · Double cams from 00 to No. Pro depends on the route, BD Ultralights, offset nuts, tri-cams, BD screws 10 to 16cm, 1x22cm ultralight for belays and threads. Other places like the Utah desert almost have no nut placements because the cracks tend to be perfectly parallel. Thoughts?? The best shape of nut to use depends on where you climb, you style of climbing and just personal preference so I wouldn't take too much advice blindly from the internet. But I found a deal on backcountry for Wild Country nuts 1-8 for $35 and 6-10 for $50, a total of $85 for 1-10 plus extras of the 6, 7, and 8. I built a master list of climbing skills for teaching friends, from single pitch sport climbing, to leading ski trips in complex avalanche terrain and first aid. Maybe its just the rock I climb on (granite in washington). 10s, you should probably get a full double rack of . I could see having a double set of nuts giving you more choices for building multi pitch anchor or bailing of a route. The main complaint with those seem to So $800 added onto your sport gear of draws, belay device, harness, shoes, chalkbag. I use them all the time now on free climbs anywhere that isn't perfectly parallel cracks they seem to fit. com My immediate group of climbing partners obsess over offset nuts. As sorta mentioned nuts and stoppers are the same thing. They inspire more confidence than any other small piece but they are slightly bigger than 0. Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. They are both the same price, but you get one extra piece with the Superlight Offset Rocks. Different brands have slightly different characteristics but theyre all just lumps of metal on wire. 1. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. I went to a famous American climbing area for the first time today, and thought the climbing sucked. Nov 23, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 75 (doubles) left front. A 70ft whip from one blown piece?! wowzers. But I don’t want to carry two racks of nuts, so I choose offset. Any ball nut tips? It’s the trango number 3 gold one I often buy a single size of pro to test out. Im not sure where you are climbing that you need so many cams starting out, but a beginner surely just needs some nuts, hexes, and offsets (in addition to the quickdraws, nut key, etc) to get through all the beginner stuff. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. I've been using a one hand hangboard and a Lattice weight pin owned by the gym I climb at. Qualified, experienced and psyched climbing and mountaineering instructor based in Snowdonia, N Wales. For me, a basic rack is a set of nuts and cams . We have been climbing for a while, guiding professionally Those offset nuts are very handy. 2/0. These nuts are crafted with meticulous attention to detail, ensuring a secure fit in irregular cracks and flares. Got me up quite alot of things. Of everything. com. Aug 8, 2022 · With no moving parts (hence, “passive protection”), nuts are inexpensive, lightweight, and sturdy. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. Your first set of nuts should be versatile in the area you'll be climbing. For single pitch trad I usually take: Small nuts, big nuts and offset nuts 6 cams (built in slings) 4 hexes (built in slings) 4 quick draws, 16 and 25cm 4 60cm alpine draws 2 120cm slings 1 240cm sling And various screwgates etc Cams are expensive and Unless you're climbing really short routes, pooling gear with a friend or climbing mixed routes a few cams and a single set of nuts isn't enough to safely protect most climbs. 4 and 3. g. 33 votes, 18 comments. The feeling you get when an offset sits perfectly- it's so satisfying. The fixed stem cams probably solid but require better attention to use. Can't go wrong with the classic BD Camelot's. The photo was to demonstrate why I climb with offsets instead of traditional nuts. :P Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I find alpine quickdraws really useful. Once you've got a double set down it's time to start investing in offsets, micros and offset micros. I am curious whether basalt climbers like offset or standard nuts more for the rock type. Budget about 1000 usd. Pick a few as back up for your Wallnuts and prepare to be converted. Building your first trad rack made simple and easy. Most people start with a 1-11 set from a major manufacturer (DMM, BD, WC) then add another 1-8 set from another manufacturer. What do you guys think? Fair assessment on it being shallower than ideal, but it’s what the rock gave me. Trying to master my gear placement though. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. I did that and then filled in with master cams and c3's for smaller sizes, and DMM offset nuts. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. The best non-offset nuts I've used are the Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts. I also use them to supplement my rack if a particular route has a LOT of one size and I need extras, or the placements aren't quite perfect. The "extra slings, carabiners, etc. I don't recall the Jul 24, 2025 · Before your trad rack is complete however, consider adding a least one set of stoppers, also called nuts, for your passive protection. Generally I use standard cams (some combination of C3s, C4s & Mastercams) but use offset cams on certain routes in certain areas like Yosemite, Index & JTree. Keeps the design sleek, would recommend DMM offset nuts, or micro brassies for style points Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome [1]. Nuts, offset nuts, C4 0. 3-3, single 4-6, and metolius 1-4 mastercams, along with two sets of nuts and a set of bd offsets. I used it as my warm up for climbing sessions, and found that my injury cleared up very quickly and my fingers feel healthier than ever. DMM offsets are popular, though I prefer a the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks paired with the Superlight half nuts (non-offset) sets. it's dangerous. For more of our top climbing gear recommendations, check out the Best Climbing Nuts. 2K votes, 171 comments. offset nuts however are incredible for free climbing. Ive been climbing a couple of years, mostly sport and bouldering, but sometimes trad with buddies. Nut-wise, I get more placements out of my offsets than my regular large nuts, but I know it depends on the area. Double nuts from 1–13. 1 is, I wonder about the advice, if I should even bother getting it for free climbing or skip to a ball nut set or passive pro only in the little sizes. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. I'd recommend saving your money as the use will be limited. It depends on where you live. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Start Jun 11, 2012 · I grew up trad climbing in Australia in the 90s where bolts were something only occasionally seen as a rap anchor and the standard rack looked like this: 2-3 sets of nuts 1 Full set of slung hexes up to #9 or #10 3-6 cams Lots of knotted slings and loose biners I recall only once or twice seeing 24 votes, 10 comments. I want to get a new set of nuts and have really like the DMM Offset nuts but the BD ones look just the same with the benefit of the color coding matching the standard BD ones. From there it's going to depends on what and where you are climbing. I want to get some gear so I have something to contribute, as well as open up my horizons to more routes other than sport. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all-season May 17, 2024 · What you really need to know, and buy, to start trad climbing. also you need moar. DMM Offset nuts) to supplement what you currently have, but they aren't necessary. Every beginner rack needs some things--giant hexes, ancient ball nuts, stupidly small offset micro-stoppers, mega big bros--that you'll never use but will give us an opportunity to make snarky comments. Petzl Attache 3D with BD ATC Guide Alpine, really light Elderid lockers. 12 votes, 48 comments. Should I slim down the rack for these routes? Should I be worried about not having any 5s or 6s? Am I gonna die if I don't have four #1s ;) Thanks to the community for any feedback! Offset nuts just help you find those nut placements were you go "oh my lord I can't believe I can get gear here". Weighing out your comfort level to how much actual weight you want to carry. Where do you plan on climbing? This greatly affects your rack. Is there any gear I should buy like some offset cams or micronuts that would be useful for jtree, or should this rack be plenty? Probably don't need doubles of the 3, but I use doubles of the . Honourable mentions to the smaller blue offset, and the red six. The DMMs 1-11 are $110. For rock Double sets of nuts are useful if they are different shapes. Enough Hexes that the local rancher thinks his herd escaped. Right now my partner and I have doubles from . So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango The order of preference on thin gear is some small nuts (and offset nuts), and then small cams, and then ball nuts. Always seems to go in on the most engaging fun pitches. tdily ouc pzrshmg koltm wtx yahv omzrtn wdyxvek fyayp gtphsz